Day 13 – Viloria de la Rioja to Villafranca Montes De Oca

May 19th – Last night’s ancient little village with no cafes and no town square was the quietest place I have been on the Camino.  Nothing but the wheat fields blowing in the soft breeze whispering “Just be”.

I left early around 7 am and was the only pilgrim on the path for several miles.  Leaving without breakfast I was looking for the first village with an open cafe.  I passed through Vilamayor Del Rio after a couple miles and crossed the highway to see if a restaurant there was open.  It wasn’t and like we tend to do I saw a pilgrim walking up ahead on the right side berm of the road and fell in behind him.  I had read that this stage followed the N-120 so while I didn’t like to have the speeding traffic that included large trucks speeding past me I didn’t question it. Catching up to the other pilgrim I greeted him with my first Buen Camino of the day.

I felt like the highway and cars blasting by were an assault to my senses.  Since my intention on the Camino is to stay present with each moment and be in a state of gratitude I began to play with ‘how can I turn the highway roar into a song’?  As I imagined what the rithym of this song would look like I noticed the familiar look of the dirt gravel Camino running parallel to the highway on the other side of the road.  Looking for a break in traffic I hurried over, once again finding myself on the correct path.  Isn’t that just how how lives are?  Sometimes on the path, other times not until we find our way back again.

The next town is Belorado and I arrive passing first by the Church of Santa Maria.  I’m so happy to see the door open when too many churchs along the way have been closed.  I’ve read that this church has a fine alter piece with the images of Santiago Matamores v Peregrino.

Continuing on through the narrow and winding way of these very old towns I find the town square and at first think that the Cafes are not open yet when I see all empty tables in the outdoor seating that faces the sycamore trees at the center.  I turned into one and found the door open with a very full cafe of town locals.  By now I am quite hungry and end up consuming not one, but two cafe con leche and a tortilla (Spanish omelet on bread).

Continuing on I’m now starting to see some fellow pilgrims.  I’m completely absorbed with   the continuing landscape, the crunching sound of my shoes on the gravel, and the tap tap of my poles when a Camino bicyclist comes up quickly from behind without a sound shocking me our of my reverie.

About six more miles later I stop again in the little village of Espinosa for a fresh squeezed glass of orange juice.   Continuing out of this sleepy hamlet and down the hill I pass the 9th century ruins of Monasterio de San Felix de Oca.

Passing over the Oca Ruver I arrive at my destination of Villafraca de Montes de Oca where I will be staying  in an Albergue that is a 16th restored pilgrim hospice, Hospital de San Antonio Abad.