May 31st – Today’s short walk of about 10 miles (compared to yesterday of about 20) starts with a blue sky and the promise of a warm day. While I start out wearing my fleece jacket I suspect I’ll be down to my short sleeves in quick order.
At the edge of town there is a choice whether to follow the yellow arrows straight ahead or take an alternate route to the right. I have all day and a beautiful day at that so I turn right. Within a short period of time and through farmlands where the frogs in the ditches at the side of the road were singing but when I stopped to take their picture became shy and dove under water, I arrive at a very sweet little town called Villares de Orbigo. Pleasant winding streets take me past an open garage door with four people who were cleaning potatoes. I said, “Hola!” and they all looked up and smiled. I pulled out my phone and in sign language asked if I could take their picture. They all nodded as they continued smiling and doing their work.
The Camino offers gifts to me every day and I feel grateful to share this moment in time with them.
Leaving this town the path moves up into quiet farmland with I ncredible views. I walk past a lean to with cows eating their breakfast and small enclosures with young calfs. The farmer is walking down the path and I tell him his animals are beautiful. I’m not sure that he understands my words but I can tell he understands the meaning and beams.
The path continues mostly up with views of this beautiful land. I feel like my feet are hardly touching the ground I am so happy.
Shortly after the next village, Santibanez de Valdeiglesias, I arrive at an Albergue/ refuge referred to as the Abode of God’s – where a man by the name of David has a donation only rest stop that has been created with love that is palatable. The grounds are immaculate. He and I chat while many pilgrims help themselves to fruit, drinks and benches to rest.
The view of the mountains is spectacular and it isn’t long before the path starts downward and Astorga comes into view at the Cruceiro Santo Toribio, a stone cross commemorating the 5th century Bishop Toribio of Astorga.
As I am taking this picture I can hear music which adds to the surreal morning this had been. I start down the hill and see where it is coming from. A local man is earning money by serenading pilgrims with a Camino song.
The closer I get to Astorga the more defined the Plaza Cathedral and Gaudi‘s Bishops Palace can be seen.
Arriving in the city I discover that today is market day and the streets are filled with street vendors and locals doing their shopping. I slow down and let myself go with the flow of people while I take in the sights and sounds around me of a normal day in Astorga.
I have booked a room tonight in a restored 18th century palace and find that I am in the attic room with a view of the garden and the cathedral along with its chiming bells which is only a street away. After such a magical day I am in heaven here on earth.
Should I stay another day? I think so!
Ann marie Carlson says
I loved Astorga. I also stopped at David’s….he was so handsome! I think he lived right there by his stand and biked into Astorga for supplies? Another great Camino experience.
sandra says
As mentioned…Astorga’s a ‘grand’ setting—SAVOR Pilgrim:)
B-U-tiful pics—holding so many memories!
Elina says
I am happy to hear that David is still there. I met him 3 years ago and was so amazed about meeting him! Just recently thought if he still continues with his own way!
Ag says
Hi Susan.
Well done. Any advice for a complete novice.
Best time to do the Camino. Best Camino to do, what to wear, bring. Can you stay in hotels,etc.
Tks
Susan Gilbert says
I have enjoyed May but Mother Nature rules and it’s impossible to compare one May to another. This year’s May has been wetter than normal but I live in Seattle and have felt right at home. I’m thinking about doing a follow up book that is more detailed and would answer many of your questions so stay tuned!
Jenn Daverington says
I’m enjoying your travels 🙂 I start my first Camno from Astorga next Friday so am most interested in your experiences over the next few days. It still seems like a dream from so far away in Australia.
Susan Gilbert says
Astorga is a great place to start. Such a charming city.