Susan Gilbert

June 7th – After breakfast with some pilgrim friends I start out on what will be a short walk if under 10 miles but one that is always going up with a 620 meter climb.

Entering the first village, Vega de Valcarce, I can already detect the change in the region and while the walk right now is along a country road there is the rio Valcarce running parallel along with trees and foliage.  There is Castillo de Sarracin visible on the hilltop to my left.  I’ve read that there is a rough and rarely used track up to the ruins and I keep my eyes open for it.  I see an overgrown path and decide to give it a try.  The walk up and back is supposed to take 45 minutes and with a short day I decide the view could make the extra walk worthwhile.  I’m plowing through underbrush and wearing shorts the nettles are scraping my legs.  I’m climbing and am probably going the right direction to the ruins but after about 15 minutes decide to turn back.

When I reach the next town, Ruitelan, I stop at a cafe, take off my backpack and order a cafe con letche.  The bar owner serves it with a beautiful swirl and a surprise pastry.  Celtic music is playing in the background I take out my first aid kit from my pack.  While I drink my coffee I pull burrs from my socks and wipe away the nettle seeds from my legs bu applying some body cream.  Soon I am refreshed in all ways and ready to continue on my way.

I pass through idyllic countryside and villages as I work my way up the mountain, sometimes along the road and others through a dirttrack where  there is much evidence it is used by the farm animals.

The higher I climb the more heavenly the region becomes and at a certain point I’ve entered into Galacia.  The cuckoos are singing, the bells of farm animals are ringing and I can hear and see a dog barking as he herds his flock of sheep.

I arrive in O Cebreiro sooner than what I want this walk to end.  I visit the church Santa Maria la Real along with her 12th century statue and visit the thatched roof bodegas that are known in this region.

I am truly on top of the world here in O Cebreiro.  Santiago is not far into my future.

June 6th – It is raining softly outside when I awaken and I have a decision to make – do I take the route through the towns and along the route, or the alternate route with a 1200m climb but which promises spectacular views.  Will it be clear enough to make the effort worthwhile?

I decide to have breakfast and ponder the options.  I’m have a conversation with a family of four at the table next to me – parents who did the Camino four years ago who have returned with their teenaged son and daughter this time. A young man who is prematurely gray and who I’ve not seen before shyly asks if he can join me at my table and we all talk back and forth.  The conversation between us all leads to the common question “Why are you walking the Camino?” and this young man replies that he recently lost both his parents and his eyes well with tears.  I’m no longer pulled to get started on my walk for the day but instead enter into the not uncommon deep conversation that can happen quickly here.  When we part, I know why the rain delayed my start for the day.

When I walk out the door and reach the fork in the road I choose the ‘high road’, heading for the hills.

I am almost immediately rewarded with a view of Villafranca and I begin to sense that I have taken the road less traveled – I see no other pilgrims.  As I climb I am walking in the clouds, the air misty.  The forest is lush and green.

As I climb, I can see that I will reach a summit and then walk across the hilltop heading west parallel to the ‘village Camino’ below me.

I feel like I am on top of the world.  Wild flowers are to my right and to my left. The yellow arrow lets me know I am on the path.

This is such a beautiful experience and I’m so happy I chose this option.  I will end the day at Ambasmestas before tackling the climb to O Cebreiro tomorrow when I will officially enter the Galacia region; but, the solo climb has been a very special day for me on the Camino.

One step at a time and always moving forward while seeing everything the days can offer me.

June 5th – Today will be warm so I leave wearing a short sleeved t-shirt and shorts.  I loved my visit to Pongerrafa with all its rich Templar, pilgrim history and castles.  There will be many small villages on today’s 15 mile walk so I leave without breakfast knowing I can get my coffee and something to eat along with a break somewhere along the way which turns out to be the first village, Columbrianos.

It’s Sunday morning and many of the locals are out running and biking which I enjoy – making me feel like I am a part of the culture.

At Fuentes Nuevas the road bends to the right but I see a very small church on my left.  Stopping to investigate I see iron doors to look through.  As I am peering in, a very small and old woman appears, opens the gates and waves me in.  It is s very quaint small chapel.  As I look around I see a woman’s photo on the wall and looking at this small woman in front of me I can see they are one and the same.  I motion to it and say, “You?” To which she nods. In sign language I ask if I can take her picture.  She nods and positions herself by the candles.  So sweet a greeting on this Sunday morning!

Camponaraya and Cacabelos come up before I know it.  The path is sometimes the country road and sometimes a dirt path but always with vineyards and farmland set against the backdrop of mountains.

I see another of the rough crafted sign that is calling out the distance to Santiago – 194.5k – a reminder that my time on the Camino is coming to a close.  In addition to vineyards there are more and more cherry trees with tempting fruit.

This is also a region for roses.  Each house had at least one rose bush and often there are so many that there perfume catches me as I walk by.  They are even growing by the side of the road with the vineyards.

The final few miles into Villafranca is through mile after mile of vineyards that often now include full orchards of cherry trees which you can see in this short video clip.

I arrive in Villafranca amidst the run portion and end of a triathlon.  Yesterday in Ponferrada there was quite a celebration around an 84k run that was taking place.  This is the weekend for athletic challenges in the region.  I walk towards the end where runners are coming to the finish line where there is quite a crowd.  I find one family with a Yorkie where I get my doggie fix and then wander through beautiful gardens where the gravel path reminds me of the Camino.  I then spy a Yorkie puppie and the young couple who is holding him hand him to me for a cuddle.

The pop music is playing loudly at the finish line when the words of the current song sink in:  “Love is in the air, Everwhere I look around…”   And it is!

June 4th – The air is moist from low clouds when I leave El Acebo with its one principal street running down the middle of a narrow road lined with stone buildings.  I heard from some pilgrims ahead of me that the continuing steep and rocky path is difficult and hard on the body.  Some pilgrims leaving town are choosing to walk the asphalt road rather than the path.

In 3.4k I come upon the sweetest little village – Riegi de Ambros that hardly seems real.  It could be a movie set it is so perfectly charming .  Flowers bloom in the gardens, livestock are in the meadows and the slate I’ve been walking on can be found on the roofs and sides of some buildings.

After leaving this village, the Camino returns to a rocky and continuing downward path.  An older man ahead of me is walking slowly and is limping – a common sight on the Camino.  He moves aside for me to pass and we greet each other.  A little while later I see him walking parallel to me on my left and moving quite quickly.  We notice each other and he motions me to cut through the bush to here he was walking.  His path was less rocky and easier to walk.  It didn’t last long before this alternative route joined up with the main but for a short time it was a pleasant reprieve from the rocks.  I asked him if he has done the Camino before and he said, “No.  I just saw it and it has less rocks.”  I thanked him and said”Buen Camino” to which he replied in kind and added, “God bless.”  What a metophor for life!

Camino angels are everywhere and always a surprise.

As the path rejoins the road I see Molinaseca come into view.  I stop at a bar cafe just because I want to be in this village a bit and absorb it’s sweet energy.  I am joined at my outdoor table by a fur friend.

It’s only another 7k or so to my final destination of Ponferrada which is quite a large city (69,000 pop) and the capital of El Bierzo.  I’ve only walked about 9 miles and look forward to spending the day here, visiting this medieval city that includes Castillo de Los Templarios and it’s rich Templar history.