May 22nd – Today will be an 18+ mile day starting back at Tardajos to Rabe de las Calzadas, Hornillos, Hontanas, San Anton to Castrojeriz. My wonderful hosts Blana and Jesus make sure I have breakfast before I leave their home. Rain is predicted for at least the first part of my day but for now it’s just cloudy but I leave oblivious of the weather. After hugs from each of my hosts, Jesus holds my face with his hands and speaks to me in Spanish. Tears well in my eyes and this experience belies logic.
I’m on my way once again. Tardajos is a charming town and I’m excited to see many stork nests in two different church steeples. More importantly they all have storks in them! See if you can see three nests below.
People say the Mesada is boring but I don’t see that at all. The towns are interesting and the fields of wheat green and blowing in the wind. It has started to sprinkle when I reach Rabe de las Calzadas and by the time I am outside this village it is pouring. I put the cover on my backpack in anticipation of this. Wearing my raincoat I’m prepared for the weather that reminds me so much of the Pacific Northwest – rapidly changing. By the time I reach Hornillos Los Del Camino I am drenched and enter a bar for a cafe con leche and the opportunity to dry off a bit. By the time I have regrouped the rain has stopped and I’m seeing some blue sky off on the horizon. Stepping outside the bar I am charmed by the fountain just opposite that I missed seeing on the way in with my head bent into the rain.
The wind is blowing stronger and seems to be coming from each side, and the I am walking into it. This swirling wind is loud and creates resistance as I walk.
Hontanas is a charming old world traditional pilgrim stop. I choose this for my lunch stop and remove my shoes and wet socks as I sit outside in the sun across from the church.
Back on the Mesata dirt path I see ahead of me someone is pushing what I think is a baby buggy. As I pass I say, “Baby”? And she says, “Yes, three years old”, and I can see a little foot wearing a tennis shoe bundled under the covers. Amazing!
I arrive at San Anton, the ruins of the ancient Convento de San Anton and pass under the St. Anthony archway.
Castrojeriz is now within view though 2.5k away. I arrive into this very long village about 3 pm having walked almost 19 miles. Finding my lodging for the night I run into Betty and Marianne from Orisson and we share our Camino stories over dinner.
You are breezing through the Camino…I am envious. Buen Camino my friend.
Every time I think that Ann Marie I look for a piece of wood to knock on – but so far, you are right!
Thank you for the fantastic blog and photographs that take me back to my Camino in 2004. The spirit of the days walks are coming through clearly!