Day 17 – Castrojeriz to Fromista

May 23rd – The walk leaving Castrojeriz on this cool morning will begin with a strenuous 12% grade  100 Meter climb onto the Meseta.  I pause about a third of the way up to take a photo and then ask another pilgrim doing the same to take one that includes me.

I continue up the hill and marvel at the beauty all around me.  Understanding that I have several days on the Meseta and may change my tune I currently find the atmosphere every bit as delightful and exhilarating as any part of the Camino I have experienced.

The land is alive with colors and the scents of rich earth mixed with freshly cut wheat and wild flowers along the road.  When I least expect it the crops and colors change.  The fields are active as the day of the week, Monday, reflects Sunday’s day of rest has passed.

Maybe it’s the time of year – perhaps the drier summer months and sun baked heat would make the Meseta more intimidating.  Many of us doing the Camino have John Brierly’s guide which is 10 years old and says that June, July and August are the busy months with May and September less so.  I think his information is out of date.  A Spanish woman back in Ventosa had said in a non judgemental way, “Why do you all come at the same time – May and September?”  Living in Seattle, I am accustomed to changing weather patterns and rain so I’m feeling right at home.  Perhaps others are finding the beauty in doing the Camino in Spring and Fall rather than Summer.

Before arriving at Itero de la Vega I pass the 13th century building Hostal originally founded in the 12th century and later a Cisterian monastery was added.  I cross over the Puento de Itero whose eleven arches carry me over the rio Pisuerga and into the Provincial de Palencia.

Itero de la Vega is my lunch stop and rest break before returning to the path – next stop Boadilla Del Camino.  The church steeples are the first things I can usually see and coming into this village I can see stork nests at the top of the parish church.

Stopping to take a picture I hear my name being called.  It is my Danish husband and wife friends who I see off and on. I visit with them for awhile and find we had all been in Castrojeriz last night.  They had walked past a building balcony and looking up had said to each other, “Susan is staying there.”  My pink clothes line with Velcro that wraps around a clothes line or in this case the balcony railing had identified me!

The final part of my 16 mile walk today that will end in  Fromista is along a tree lined path and the Canal de Castilla.  For all the Camino pilgrims who believe the Path is for penance, pain and suffering I’m sorry – but I am having an experience of joy filled days with more beauty around me that I can possibly behold and absorb into my being.  I’m singing a different tune – Blessed be.