June 4th – The air is moist from low clouds when I leave El Acebo with its one principal street running down the middle of a narrow road lined with stone buildings. I heard from some pilgrims ahead of me that the continuing steep and rocky path is difficult and hard on the body. Some pilgrims leaving town are choosing to walk the asphalt road rather than the path.
In 3.4k I come upon the sweetest little village – Riegi de Ambros that hardly seems real. It could be a movie set it is so perfectly charming . Flowers bloom in the gardens, livestock are in the meadows and the slate I’ve been walking on can be found on the roofs and sides of some buildings.
After leaving this village, the Camino returns to a rocky and continuing downward path. An older man ahead of me is walking slowly and is limping – a common sight on the Camino. He moves aside for me to pass and we greet each other. A little while later I see him walking parallel to me on my left and moving quite quickly. We notice each other and he motions me to cut through the bush to here he was walking. His path was less rocky and easier to walk. It didn’t last long before this alternative route joined up with the main but for a short time it was a pleasant reprieve from the rocks. I asked him if he has done the Camino before and he said, “No. I just saw it and it has less rocks.” I thanked him and said”Buen Camino” to which he replied in kind and added, “God bless.” What a metophor for life!
Camino angels are everywhere and always a surprise.
As the path rejoins the road I see Molinaseca come into view. I stop at a bar cafe just because I want to be in this village a bit and absorb it’s sweet energy. I am joined at my outdoor table by a fur friend.
It’s only another 7k or so to my final destination of Ponferrada which is quite a large city (69,000 pop) and the capital of El Bierzo. I’ve only walked about 9 miles and look forward to spending the day here, visiting this medieval city that includes Castillo de Los Templarios and it’s rich Templar history.
Stunning!