June 7th – After breakfast with some pilgrim friends I start out on what will be a short walk if under 10 miles but one that is always going up with a 620 meter climb.
Entering the first village, Vega de Valcarce, I can already detect the change in the region and while the walk right now is along a country road there is the rio Valcarce running parallel along with trees and foliage. There is Castillo de Sarracin visible on the hilltop to my left. I’ve read that there is a rough and rarely used track up to the ruins and I keep my eyes open for it. I see an overgrown path and decide to give it a try. The walk up and back is supposed to take 45 minutes and with a short day I decide the view could make the extra walk worthwhile. I’m plowing through underbrush and wearing shorts the nettles are scraping my legs. I’m climbing and am probably going the right direction to the ruins but after about 15 minutes decide to turn back.
When I reach the next town, Ruitelan, I stop at a cafe, take off my backpack and order a cafe con letche. The bar owner serves it with a beautiful swirl and a surprise pastry. Celtic music is playing in the background I take out my first aid kit from my pack. While I drink my coffee I pull burrs from my socks and wipe away the nettle seeds from my legs bu applying some body cream. Soon I am refreshed in all ways and ready to continue on my way.
I pass through idyllic countryside and villages as I work my way up the mountain, sometimes along the road and others through a dirttrack where there is much evidence it is used by the farm animals.
The higher I climb the more heavenly the region becomes and at a certain point I’ve entered into Galacia. The cuckoos are singing, the bells of farm animals are ringing and I can hear and see a dog barking as he herds his flock of sheep.
I arrive in O Cebreiro sooner than what I want this walk to end. I visit the church Santa Maria la Real along with her 12th century statue and visit the thatched roof bodegas that are known in this region.
I am truly on top of the world here in O Cebreiro. Santiago is not far into my future.
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