June 8th – Being at O Cebreiro is like being on top of the world though it is only 1330 meters. Mountains, layered hills on the horizon and blue skies surround this old world village along with the knowledge that my body has carried me here. Even though I am living it every day it still astounds me. The green lush countryside reminds me of home but in a very foreign way. I sure wouldn’t see signs like this one at home! Octopus is the regional specialty.
I have a quick cup of coffee before leaving for today’s 13 mile walk with a bit of a climb before there is a long and steep descent into Tricastela. Look who is greeting me and looking for some breakfast, wagging his tail in anticipation. Doors and window have no screens yet he knows to go only so far into this open door.
Each village that I walk through today is a working village of farmers bailing their hay and moving their cattle. Such beautiful animals they are! I stop to watch what I think must be some adolescents who are playing and chasing each other. I’ve never seen such a sight.
Intermittent conversations with fellow pilgrims and some solitude walking makes for a perfect day once again on the Camino. I love each step forward and turning to see where I’ve been (like in the photo below). Everything is fresh and new every day and every moment. The ancient Camino is worn down with the feet of countless pilgrims, local livestock, and the local farmers with their dogs yet is vibrant and alive.
Every day the Camino offers beauty, friendship and surprises. I was walking with a fellow pilgrim through one of today’s many villages when the smallest little old lady appeared with a stack of “pancakes” – crepes – and a shaker of sugar, sprinkling some on the top of the first and offering it to us. We each took one though the person I was with was with was not eating carbohydrates and we each gave her a coin or two. The kindness was evident and the Camino pilgrims bring life and often income to these small villages.
Tomorrow I will walk to Sarria where the last 100 kilometers to Santiago begins. Many people who do this last section will join those of us who have started from many different locations bringing many new faces to the path for the last week on the Camino. Another pilgrim friend, Eddie from Ireland, arrived in Santiago today. Some are behind and will arrive several days behind me.
The place I am staying at in Triacastela will have a washer and dryer – I’m excited. On the Camino there is a routine: walk, arrive at your destination, shower, hand wash your clothes and hang to dry then use your remaining time before dinner to nap, visit the town, read, and for me – write this blog. To think I’ll be able to pop my clothes in a washer is a luxury!
Oh, I remember pancake lady…she came out of a barn with her plate of pancakes/crepes. So many memories.
It’s coming to a close far too quickly, Ann Marie
The yellow shrub in your last photo appears to be Spanish gorse. According to our guide on the tour to Finisterre this is the regional flower of the Galicia area much like the rhododendron is the flower associated with our area.
Thank you, Diane. And the roses flourish here!
Susan, I have enjoyed your journey and I think I will be a little sad when you reach Santiago. Do you have a section on the accomodation where you have stayed ? I am now planning to do the journey next year. Thank you again for sharing yours. Dianne
I may be doing a follow up book or blog with that information Dianne. Stay tuned!
Thanks Susan, happy travels.
I remember that dog! He guarded our bikes as we went inside for a café con leche y tostadas. At least that’s what I asked him to do. I would’ve loved to have cuddled him but he’d been playing in some of the famous Galician cow pats!