May 12th – I’ll be walking about 14 miles today which seems like the norm now. My right ankle is still sore and I’m wondering what today’s surface will be like on the path. There were sections between Burguete and Akeretta that had been paved in slate and at first thought compared to the loose rocks I believed it would be an improvement. However, they were very slippery and slick from the rain during the night and with nothing to sink the poles into for stabilization it was rough going. Fortunately my friend Ann Marie who walked the Camino last year had loaned me rubber tips for my poles that were to be helpful on gravel. I pulled them out of my backpack and used them on this slippery surface which helped considerably. Swapping stories with some other pilgrims I learned that the day I came through that section, three separate individuals had slipped and had been taken to the hospital via ambulance. Of all the things I thought about for the Camino, the challenges of path surfaces was not one of them.
My intention for the Camino is to walk it being present in each moment – not to worry or think about what hasn’t yet happened or ruminate about what has and it’s a challenge. Checking weather and being aware of not walking into a storm, preparing where possible, then letting go. A fellow pilgrim, Sue from Australia, shared a photo with me that so perfectly demonstrates that. She captured this gorgeous dog with a baguette in his mouth as she ‘in the moment’ peeked through the door and saw him, snapped the photo, and just that fast he was gone! What sights, sounds and experiences do we miss when we aren’t present in the moment?
Photo by Susan Moller
As I meet other pilgrims at rest stops or in the evening the most asked question after “Where are you from?” is “How far will you walk today?”; and, “How far are you going (Santiago)?” It’s obvious what is constantly on our minds!
I was told of a frail man who was supported by two people one on each side first spotted in Roncevalles. How surprised they were when turning the corner of a narrow winding cobbled street in Pamplona there he was once again. You have to wonder if the two people who were supporting him were helping the man to fulfill a lifelong dream.
Leaving Puente La Reina I passed under the old wall arch and over the often photographed XII century ‘Queen’s Bridge’ (photo above). I’m surrounded with history as the path continues along the Arga River.
Today I found myself taking my backpack off and on initially as I pealed off layers of clothing then when the rain started putting clothes back on, my raincoat and hat. The scenery is once again stunning and I find myself doing 360 degree turns to see not only what is ahead of me and at each side, but also the view from where I have walked from. I pass through beautifully preserved medieval hilltop villages with narrow winding streets; and, across gently rolling farmland with vineyards.
I’m in awe of this experience and find wonder in all that surrounds me. Look at the rain glistening on the grass.
I arrive at my destination, Estella, and crossing over the restored medieval bridge Puente de Carvel, I find my hotel is located right next to the parish church of Iglesia San Miguel.
My second floor room has a lovely view of the old walled city street.
Tomorrow I will be walking to Los Arcos. There are two paths to choose from – one more rural but steeper, the other thru villages and still with a climb. I’ll decide which one in the morning after I check in with my ankles.
My walk today from Puenta La Reina to Estella.
The elevation as provided by the RunTracker app.
PS – I am adding the above two charts to my prior posts if you want to go back and see them.
PPS – I’ve been posting more photos than included here on my Facebook profile. If we aren’t already connected there and want to see them, follow me at: http://www.facebook.com/susangilbert
Valerie says
You are becoming my favorite moment of the day Miss Gilbert.
I am so in love with your journey.
Fran Moynihan says
What a fabulous report of your remarkable journey! Beautiful writing and know that I am learning so much.
Jorge Luis says
Hi Susan, I am excited to read your daily bulletins on the way, I appreciate your comments and admire your photos, I made the road mountain bike 17 years ago so that your journey takes me back in time to remember mine, thanks for tell us your experience, I wish Buen Camino!!! from Venezuela
Beca Lewis says
Can’t tell you how much I love this Susan!
Lois says
Susan, I am inspired by your journey and am awe of your adventurous spirit. Stay in the moment as you have so noted, I have read about others who have taking this journey and have been forever changed.