Visiting Malta for the first time reminds me that firsts act as markers for new beginnings. They create long-lasting memories and offer the opportunity to experience something new.
The Maltese Islands
I must have been a nomad in a prior life. Making our way from country to country, city to city, exploring the sites, sounds and smells of each is a living aphrodisiac for me. Not wanting this journey to end, and torn between my love of exploration and jux opposed homing pigeon desire to return to the farm and animals, I fully embraced my final stop on this adventure.
Malta would be my last country visited of what turned out to be seven (7) countries in 23 days with my friend Robert who is doing an around the world trip in his Malibu Mirage; and it proved to be a country filled with surprises starting with it’s unusual language (a mixture of English, Italian and Arabic). Having just left Elba Island (Italy) where I had fun mastering “Arrivederci” I was introduced to the common Malta goodbye of “Ciao ciao!” by Keith Abela who was our Handler at MLA, Malta International Airport. In general aviation (rather than commercial), handlers are the people who greet you at the plane and assist with everything from moving your luggage, helping to acquire fuel, transition through customs if needed and finding a reputable taxi to our hotel. Malta’s airport is very busy and getting a fuel truck with Avgas (rather than Jet Fuel) can be challenging. After waiting for an hour in the sweltering sun with heat pouring off the tarmac, I’ll never forget seeing Keith’s little white car trailing behind a fuel truck, herding them to us.
The taxi cab driver to our accommodations had been raised in Malta, but sported a Canadian accent and replied to my questions with an”Ay!”. Turns out his father had moved the family from the cold winters of Canada to Malta when he was a boy. With an Arabic sounding language I inquired about the primary religion of Malta as we passed one church after another, and he surprisingly answered: ‘Christian. Only one mosque is on the island.’ This was just the beginning of many revelations this island would hold.
Our accommodations for each stop were made by General Aviation Support Egypt – G.A.S.E. and were always superb. In Malta, we had a two bedroom apartment with a spectacular view of Valletta. If I had not been ready to explore, I could have sat in that living room gazing at the view in front of me all day!
Malta also had a familiar feeling to it and I soon found out why – I had seen these backdrops in films like of Game of Thrones, Gladiator, Troy, Alexander, The Da Vinci Code, Munich, Captain Phillips, WWZ, The Count of Monte Cristo, Midnight Express, Napoleon, Eichmann, Sinbad, Agora, Cutthroat Island, Popeye, Adrift, U-571, Moby Dick, Kon-Tiki, and The Devil’s Double. Whew! No, I haven’t seen them all but I’ve seen enough of them that I felt like I’d been here before.
Malta’s History
Few places have a history as turbulent and inspiring as the Maltese Islands. Its gripping story that spans over 7000 years is that of a country buffeted by world events, in which, the bravery and resilience of its people have been tested to the limit. Colorful boats bring splashes of color to the sun washed and aged stone. Wikipedia states, “Malta, an archipelago in the central Mediterranean between Sicily and the North African coast, is a nation known for historic sites related to a succession of rulers including the Romans, Moors, Knights of St. John, French and British. It has numerous fortresses, megalithic temples and the Ħal Saflieni Hypogeum, a subterranean complex of halls and burial chambers dating to 3600 B.C.E.”
Sights of Malta
“Hop On, Hop Off” buses are a great way to get an overview of a new city or in this case country. You hop on where you want to start, hop off at a place of interest you want to visit, and then hop back on when you are ready to move on. They aren’t always as prompt as advertised – every 30 minutes – but the benefits of easy transportation to main points of interest outweigh the (sometimes) extended wait times.
On the way to Mdina, we hopped off at the San Anton Botanical Gardens and spent a good hour wandering through the beautiful gardens and we came across a maze in the gardens which was a happy diversion. There are fountains and ponds with gold fish, swans, ducks and even turtles. The vibrant colors are delightful. We wandered past the Presidential Palace which is a charming building and noticed the children gathering up the dried flowers on the ground and throwing them in the air. I wish I would have asked if that had an significance other than fun!
Mdina
The old capital of Malta – Mdina, is a glimpse into medieval times. Horse drawn carriages transport tourists through the narrow and winding streets where the clip clop of horses hoofs echo off the stone buildings. This fortified city, now called the “Silent City” with no cars within it’s walls, was no longer the capital after the 1600’s when a ‘new city’, Valetta, was built – a harbor city better suited for protecting this often attacked island. Rabat (suburb in Arabic) is adjacent to Medina where we visited St. Paul’s Church and Catacombs. These catacombs were used in Roman times to bury the dead as, according to Roman culture, it was unhygienic to bury the dead in the city Mdina and parts of Rabat were built on top of an ancient Roman city. Visiting Rabat and Mdina makes me realize what a small part in time our lives occupy when compared to all the cultures and people who walked the same streets I did that day.
Valletta
Valletta is the ‘new’ capital of Malta – new as in built in 16th century. Built during the rule of the Order of St. John of Jerusalem, also known as Knights Hospitaller. We visited the amazing hospital that had one bed and one bath, side by side, for each patient and color coded canopies which designated what their ailment was. NO women were allowed as patients here.
Valletta is also where Fort St. Elmo is located along with the Lower Barracca Gardens where its monuments of remembrance are located along with the saluting battery. Only a short walk after arriving at the walled City you’ll find an Oasis of beautiful gardens with trees giving shade. You can over look the Battery and the Cannons and the beautiful trimmed lawns below and if you are there at the right time you can witness the Gun-salute from the cannon. The cannon boom reverberates against the ancient city walls and across the water to mainland Malta, a resounding reminder of the battles this island has endured.
Gozo
Gozo is a small island and a ferry ride away from the main island of Malta. The Citadel is a well recognized castle/fort as a present day backdrop for movies. I found the Old Prison fascinating for the ‘art’ and the history. Located in the Citadel, overlooking Cathedral Square and adjacent to the Law Courts to which is was originally connected. The prison was in use from the mid-16th century until the beginning of the 20th century. Soon after their arrival in Malta, the Knights of St. John started making use of this prison by dispatching their rowdier member ‘to cool down’ there. Escapes are recorded to have taken place both during the rule of the Knights and British rule though after walking thru the individual cells, next to a central courtyard and surrounded by a narrow corridor it’s hard to imagine how that could have happened. But here is the interesting part: The walls of the cells and corridors in the old prison are covered with graffiti. It is considered the largest collection of historical graffiti in one single place. The representations are often of ships, and the date from different periods. There are handprints, crosses, names, dates, etc etched into the limestone walls. Some inmates also appear to have scratched a tally of their length of stay behind bars and all this is open and touchable to us today!
I am in awe that I can stand here in the same place so many have stood in another prior time, and touch the walls that have were touched by others hundreds of years ago.
Comino
The final island, Comino, offers the Blue Lagoon where we stopped for a short dip in the bluest water you can imagine before returning home.
While Malta abounds with history, it is a vibrant, cosmopolitan and lively place to visit. The two-bedroom apartment we rented was in the Sliema district which was across the street from the ferries and boats with a stunning view of Valletta, and within walking distance to the great restaurants of St. Julian. The people of Malta are helpful and friendly. When we walked the twisted city streets, tourists with maps in hand, we could comfortably reach out for directions and they were warmly given. Chatting with my taxi driver on my way to the airport to catch my commercial flight home, he explained how much things had changed in the last 15 years. At 31 years of age, he grew up amidst a bombed version of today’s Malta. The active rebuilding of Malta accomplished in the most recent times has revitalized this country and set the stage for vacationers from around the world.
The idyllic, Mediterranean archipelago that makes up the Maltese Islands in numbers:
423,282 – the current population
300 – days of sunshine each year
68.9% – percentage of population online
10 – national holidays in Malta each year
359 – number of churches in Malta and Gozo
98 – degrees C, the temperature milk needs to be heated to make a traditional gbejna (cheeselet)
8 – the average guest stay in Malta (mine was 6 days/5 nights)
4 – who are permanent Comino Residents
21.4 – number of KM between Malta and Gozo
15 – the average minutes of driving time between one destination and another
Accommodations in Malta
We found the best value to be a two bedroom apartment in a hotel on the coast, close to city and with a private beach, restaurants, bars, free wifi and balcony overlooking the sea for $521 for the one apartment for 3 nights and we ended up extending for 2 more. WiFi is available in all areas and is free of charge. Free entry to MedAsia Beach is from 01 June to 01 August
Pebbles Boutique Aparthotel, 88-89 The Strand Sliema , SLM 1022, Malta Phone: +35621311889
Return to Home
While I write this from my desk in the upstairs of the barn with my little dogs on my lap and at my feet, the horses are in the pasture, and the chickens and new found rooster cluck and crow, these adventures are in my bones for life. I hope I’ve given you the right mix of information and experience. I’ll be writing about the other six (6) stops and prior travels, so please let me know! Comment here and/or on social media. I look forward to hearing from you. ~Susan
Susan,
Planning to Walk The Way next spring. Did you use a company to handle your hotel and bagage transport between stops. I’m trying to decide a good company that provides those services
Thanks
Hi John,
I used Correos (the Spanish postal service) when I wanted assistance which included taking a print I purchased in Pamplona to Santiago where it was waiting for me when I got there. I can very much recommend them – here is their email: mimochila@correos.com